Washing Your Car After It’s Ceramic Coated
If you've recently ceramic coated your car (or are planning to), you've probably heard the golden rule. Do not wash your car or expose it to rain within the first 7 days of application!
But why do you have to wait a week (in some cases two weeks) to take your new fancy-looking ride for a spin? It all comes down to one thing: curing.
Understanding The Ceramic Coating Curing Process
Curing refers to how long it takes for the ceramic coating to fully adheres to the vehicle's paint surface.
The elemental chemical composition of a ceramic coating is Silicon Dioxide (SiO2). When the ceramic coating is applied, and SiO2 comes into contact with the moisture in the air, it begins to hydrolyze. Cross-linked covalent bonds form between the clear coat and the coating, fusing the two.
Generally, the ceramic coating hardens within 48 hours, but the curing process is still underway. It is imperative to let the ceramic coating cure as specified by the dealer.
Depending on the outdoor temperature and humidity levels, a professional-grade ceramic coating like Ceramic Pro takes about two to three weeks to cure fully.
You can get a faster curing time (7-10 days) if it's summertime. If it is winter or you live in a very low humidity region, you should give your coating more time to cure. Our recommendation is at least 14 days.
After that period, you can safely assume that your coating has fully cured and is safe for the 1st wash.
First Wash After Ceramic Coating
Now that your ceramic coated is fully cured, it's time to wash your car.
Even if you kept the car in the garage and didn't drive it (as is expected when the coating was curing), it will still accumulate dust. That's why it's wrong to assume that a regular wash is unnecessary.
Also, it's best if you have complete control of the wash process. This way, you can regulate how the car is cleaned and what products are used. With that in mind, here is our top recommended method for cleaning a ceramic-coated car.
The 2-Bucket Washing Method
In this method, two buckets are used; one for washing and one for rinsing. The wash bucket contains the wash solution, while the rinse bucket contains pure water. Both buckets should have a grit guard.
Dip the wash mitt in the wash bucket and use it to clean a section of the vehicle.
Plunge the mitt into the rinse bucket to remove any dirt, pebbles, and other contaminants it might have collected.
Dip the wash mitt into the wash bucket and clean another section of the car.
Rinse and repeat until you've covered the whole car.
Rinse off the soap with clean water and finish up with a thorough drying of your car with a dedicated microfiber drying towel.
We recommend using separate wash buckets and mitts for the wheels, which collect brake dust and carbon deposits. The last thing you want is, gliding a wash mitt with these tiny bits of metal on your ceramic-coated paintwork!
Here are some guidelines to help you purchase the best drying towels:
A terry weave design (extremely absorbent ).
70/30 blend of polyester and polyamide (leaves no marks behind)
A high GMS of above 800. (Typically thicker and plusher.)
20 x 30 inches or bigger to cover large surface areas at once.
Alternative: Rinseless Wash
The rinseless method means precisely what it sounds like. It's a washing technique that allows you to wash your car in a way that does not require rinsing afterward.
A rinseless wash has several advantages over the 2-bucket method.
It uses less water, which is good in areas with a water restriction.
Many consider it to be more eco-friendly.
However, there's one caveat: it's only effective if there are no heavy dirt or mud deposits on the lower panels of the car. This makes it more suited for a "quick wipe" rather than a "deep clean."
The rinseless wash method follows a similar process as the two-bucket handwash.
Fill one bucket with rinse water and the other with your rinseless wash product diluted at the correct ratio (typically 1 ounce for 2 gallons of water)
Use a wash mitt to wash your vehicle-covering one panel at a time, starting at the top, moving down.
After cleaning a panel, use a clean drying towel to wipe the residue and blot the surface dry.
General Tips For Washing A Ceramic Coated Car
Choose a ph-neutral car shampoo.
We recommend using a car wash liquid that is:
pH neutral - reduces the chances of car ceramic coating damage.
Wax-free - wax can leave a minor residual layer on top of the coating, reducing hydrophobic properties.
Has high-suds producing qualities - helps to glide the soap and wash mitt over the surface and easily remove dirt and debris.
Wash in the morning or the late evening.
You should never wash a car with ceramic coating in direct sunlight, as the heat will cause water spots and streaks to form. Preferably, wash your car in the garage or under a shade. If this isn't an option, clean it in the early morning or late evening.
Remove contaminants from ceramic coating immediately.
Contaminants such as bird droppings, bug splatters, and tree sap are acidic and can degrade your ceramic coating. You should always remove them immediately. Remember to blot and not wipe – this minimizes the spread of contaminants on your paintwork.
Use the right quick detailer product.
There are many different Si02-infused quick detailer products available on the market. These act as a top-up to the existing protection and rejuvenate the exceptional water-repelling behavior of the ceramic coating. Most brands will have a specifically formulated product to work best with their ceramic coating. For example, since we offer Ceramic Pro nano coatings, we recommend Ceramic Pro CARE.
Final Thoughts On Washing Ceramic CoatingS
Keeping your ceramic coating in tip-top shape only needs a good wash routine and regular maintenance. We hope our post on how to wash your car after the ceramic coating application has answered any questions you might have had around this topic.
If you are looking for more in-depth information about ceramic coatings and want to know if it's the right investment for you, head over to our Ceramic Pro page to learn more.
